New Roof Inspection Checklist: What to Check After Installation

New Roof Inspection Checklist: What to Check After Installation

After a new roof installation, use this checklist to verify quality workmanship. Check flashing, shingle alignment, cleanup, and warranty documentation.

January 27, 20269 min read

A new roof is a significant financial commitment — typically $10,000 to $20,000 or more for a standard Tennessee residence — and like any major construction project, the quality of the outcome depends entirely on the quality of the installation. Most homeowners assume that paying a contractor means the work is done correctly, and most of the time that assumption holds. But installation errors are more common than the industry likes to acknowledge, and many of them are not immediately visible from the ground.

Knowing what to inspect after a new roof installation lets you verify your investment before the contractor leaves the job site, while the crew is still available to address any deficiencies at no additional cost. This checklist is also useful if you are considering a professional post-installation inspection as a quality verification step — which we strongly recommend for any roof replacement project.


Does a New Roof Actually Need to Be Inspected?

Yes — and here is why. The new roof inspection is not about distrust. It is about verification. The trades that produce the best outcomes are the ones where accountability checkpoints are built into the process. A post-installation inspection:

  • Confirms that all workmanship matches the proposal specifications and the manufacturer's installation requirements
  • Documents the condition of the new roof at time of completion — useful for future insurance claims
  • Identifies installation defects while the contractor still has an obligation to correct them
  • Confirms that all required permits and inspections were obtained and passed
  • Ensures warranty documentation is complete and properly registered

In Tennessee, significant roofing work typically requires a building permit in most counties and municipalities, which means the installation is also subject to a county or city inspector's review. That code inspection verifies minimum safety and code compliance — it is not a quality inspection for workmanship excellence. Your own checklist fills that gap.

Do Your Walk-Through Before Final Payment

If your contract includes a final payment upon completion, conduct your inspection and walk-through before writing the final check. Reputable contractors expect this and will walk the roof with you to answer questions about any findings. If a contractor resists a final walk-through, that resistance tells you something important.


Part 1: Shingle Installation Quality

Alignment and Coursing

Shingles should be installed in straight, horizontal courses from eave to ridge. Look for:

Staggered joints. The vertical joints between shingles in each course should be offset from the joints in the courses above and below by at least six inches (and no more than three-quarters of a shingle width apart, depending on the shingle type). Aligned vertical joints create a path for water to track behind shingle courses.

Consistent exposure. Every course should expose the same depth of shingle as the course below it. Inconsistent exposure creates a wavy, irregular appearance and may indicate inconsistent nailing patterns that affect performance.

Straight lines. Standing at the corner of the house and looking along each slope, the shingle courses should present straight horizontal lines from eave to ridge with no waviness or dips that indicate the shingles are not following a properly snapped chalk line.

Starter Strip Installation

The starter strip is the first course installed at the eave, before any field shingles. It provides a sealed edge that prevents wind from lifting the first course of field shingles. Check that:

  • A dedicated starter strip (or starter-course shingles with factory-applied sealant) was used — not cut-down field shingles
  • The starter strip overhangs the drip edge by 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch (not flush and not significantly overhanging)
  • The starter strip's adhesive strip is at the eave edge, not the upper edge

Ridge Cap Installation

The ridge cap is the final course installed at the roof peak and at hip ridges. It is visually prominent and functionally critical. Verify:

Proper product. Ridge caps should be dedicated ridge cap shingles (factory cut for this purpose) or properly cut field shingles as specified by the manufacturer. Many manufacturers now require their own ridge cap products to maintain warranty coverage.

Nail placement. Ridge caps must be nailed through the product into the decking on both sides of the ridge. Nails placed too high, too low, or off-center compromise holding power.

Consistent appearance. Each cap shingle should overlap the one below it by the same amount, creating a uniform pattern without exposed nail heads or misaligned sections.


Part 2: Flashing Installation

Flashing is where installation quality matters most, and where the consequences of poor workmanship take the longest to become apparent. A flashing error may not produce a visible leak for one or two rain seasons, but when it does, the resulting water damage can be significant.

Chimney Flashing

Chimney flashing is the most complex flashing installation on most homes. After installation, verify:

Step flashing integration. Each step flashing piece should be woven into the shingle course alongside the chimney — one piece per shingle course, overlapping the piece below. Step flashing that is simply laid on top of shingles rather than integrated into courses will lift and separate.

Counter flashing. Metal counter flashing should be embedded in the chimney mortar joints (either cut into the mortar or bent and sealed under a mortar cap) and folded down to cover the top of the step flashing. Caulk-only counter flashing is a shortcut that is not a durable long-term solution.

Cricket or saddle. For chimneys wider than 30 inches, a cricket (a peaked structure on the uphill side of the chimney) is required to divert water around the chimney. If your chimney is wide enough to require one, confirm it was installed.

Pipe Boot Flashings

Each plumbing vent pipe through the roof should have a dedicated boot flashing. Confirm:

  • Proper rubber or lead boot is installed on every penetration
  • The boot collar fits snugly around the pipe diameter
  • The boot base is nailed and sealed to the deck (not just set on top of the shingles)
  • The shingles around the boot are properly integrated so water flows over, not under, the flashing base

Drip Edge

Drip edge is a code-required installation in Tennessee. Verify:

Eave drip edge. Installed under the underlayment along the horizontal eave edges, extending into the gutter to direct water away from the fascia board. Drip edge should be present on every eave edge.

Rake drip edge. Installed over the underlayment along the angled rake edges at the gable ends. The rake drip edge goes over the underlayment so that wind-driven water at the rake edge cannot get under the drip edge and behind the fascia.

No gaps. Drip edge sections should overlap each other by at least two inches and be nailed at regular intervals. Gaps between sections create vulnerabilities at the eave and rake.

Drip Edge Is Required by Tennessee Building Code

Tennessee adopted the International Residential Code (IRC), which requires drip edge at all eaves and rakes. This has been a code requirement since the 2012 code cycle. If your new roof does not have drip edge, the installation is not code compliant, and the building permit inspection should catch this — but verify it yourself regardless.

Valley Treatment

Valleys can be installed as open metal (a continuous metal panel exposed in the center), woven (two shingle fields interwoven through the valley), or closed-cut (two fields with one cut back for a clean line). Whatever method your proposal specified, verify:

  • Valley treatment matches what was quoted and agreed upon
  • For open metal valleys, the metal is centered, properly nailed at intervals, and extends fully from ridge to eave
  • For woven or closed-cut valleys, no nails are driven through the valley centerline area where water channels
  • Valley surfaces are clean and properly sealed at edges

Part 3: Underlayment and Deck Preparation

The underlayment — typically synthetic or felt — is installed under the shingles and provides a secondary moisture barrier. You may not be able to fully verify underlayment coverage after shingles are installed, but ask your contractor directly:

  • Was synthetic or felt underlayment used? (Your contract should specify.)
  • Was ice-and-water shield installed in valleys, at eaves, and around all penetrations? Tennessee code requires ice-and-water shield at eaves in areas prone to ice damming.
  • Were any sections of decking replaced during installation? If so, what areas and at what thickness?

If decking replacement was performed, inspect those areas from the attic. New decking panels should be flush with the surrounding deck — no raised edges that could telegraph through the shingles.


Part 4: Ventilation

If your roof replacement proposal included ventilation improvements — new ridge vents, replacement soffit vents, or a new attic ventilation calculation — verify the work from inside the attic and from the exterior:

Ridge vent. A continuous ridge vent is installed by cutting a slot along the ridge peak before installing the ridge cap shingles. Confirm the slot is open and that the ridge cap shingles do not compress and close the vent.

Soffit ventilation. Confirm that ventilation baffles (channels that keep insulation from blocking the soffit-to-attic airflow path at the eaves) are installed in each rafter bay at the eave line. New insulation installed during roofing work should not block soffit vent paths.


Part 5: Cleanup and Site Condition

Roofing generates significant debris — old shingles, nails, underlayment scraps, packaging. A professional installation includes thorough site cleanup. Verify:

Nail sweep. Rolling magnetic nail sweeps should be used across every area of your yard, driveway, landscaping beds, and any deck or patio areas. A nail in a tire or a child's foot found a week later means the cleanup was inadequate.

Debris removal. All old roofing material, packaging, and scrap should be removed from the property — not simply relocated to a back corner. Confirm the dumpster or trailer has been emptied.

No damage to landscaping. Large flat sections of old shingles and bundles of new material can crush plantings. Do a perimeter walk and note any plantings that were damaged so you can address compensation before the contractor leaves.

Gutters cleared. Old granules, roofing debris, and nails can end up in gutters during tear-off. Confirm gutters were cleaned of debris after installation.


Part 6: Permit and Warranty Documentation

Building Permit and Inspection

In most Tennessee counties and municipalities, a roofing replacement requires a building permit. The permit process triggers a building department inspection of the completed work. Confirm:

  • A permit was obtained before work began (ask to see the permit number or the permit card if one was posted)
  • The county or city inspection was completed and passed
  • A copy of the final inspection approval is provided to you with your project paperwork

Working without a permit creates liability for the homeowner: unpermitted work can complicate insurance claims, home sale transactions, and refinancing.

Manufacturer Warranty Registration

Most major shingle manufacturers — GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, Atlas — offer enhanced warranties (covering both materials and workmanship) when the installation is performed by a certified contractor and registered within a specific timeframe (usually 45 to 90 days after installation). Confirm:

  • The contractor is a certified installer for the specific shingle product used
  • The warranty has been or will be registered in your name with the manufacturer
  • You receive a copy of both the manufacturer warranty certificate and the contractor's workmanship warranty

Workmanship Warranty

The contractor's workmanship warranty covers installation defects — things the manufacturer warranty does not cover. This is the contractor's personal guarantee of their work. Verify:

  • The workmanship warranty term (typically 2 to 10 years for established contractors)
  • Exactly what is covered (leaks from installation errors vs. material failure vs. storm damage)
  • What the process is to file a workmanship claim

When to Schedule a Follow-Up Inspection

Even with a thorough walk-through at completion, scheduling a professional third-party inspection 6 to 12 months after installation has real value. The first several rain events and seasonal temperature cycles will reveal any installation deficiencies that are not apparent at initial completion — minor flashing imperfections, slightly misaligned starter strips, or ventilation issues that only manifest under specific weather conditions.

For a detailed picture of what that follow-up inspection covers, see our full guide on what roof inspectors look for. For context on the indicators that an existing roof has reached end of life and triggered your replacement decision, see our when to replace your roof guide.

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Frequently Asked Questions


Our licensed inspection team serves Nashville, Murfreesboro, Brentwood, Franklin, and surrounding Middle Tennessee communities. Whether you want a post-installation quality verification or are evaluating whether a replacement is needed, we provide written assessments with photographs and honest recommendations.

Related resources: When to Replace Your Roof | What Roof Inspectors Look For | Roof Inspection Services | Roof Replacement Services | Contact Us

Schedule Your Free Roof Inspection

Our certified inspectors will evaluate your roof and provide a detailed assessment at no cost.

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Opus Roofing Team

Opus Roofing Team

Licensed Roofing Professionals

The Opus Roofing team brings decades of combined experience in residential roofing across Middle Tennessee. We're licensed, insured, and committed to helping homeowners make informed decisions about their roofs.

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